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To Thom Moon,
I have a 7.1 Sony home-theater speaker system, Sony STR-DN 1000 A/V receiver, and want to install a good FM antenna in my attic above the receiver. I live about 25 miles northwest of midtown Manhattan. Do you have any suggestions and reviews?
So long as you don’t have foil-faced insulation in your attic, that will be a good place to install it. However, before you mount the antenna permanently, move the antenna around the attic (both vertically and horizontally) to find the best reception -- FM signals are odd creatures that can vary in strength by 50 percent or more over the distance of two or three feet. Multipath interference also can vary greatly over a short distance.
At your distance from Manhattan, you have a number of choices. You probably can get away with a simple omni-directional antenna such as Winegard’s HD-6010 or Antennacraft’s FMSS. You'll need about 5.5'-diameter clear to mount either unit. Each antenna is between $25-$30 plus another $10-$20 for mounting hardware. With these, you'll also need to purchase some RG-6 coax and F connectors.
If your space is limited on the horizontal plane, but you have a rather tall attic, you could go with one of the vertical omni antennas such as the Magnum Dynalab ST-2 or Fanfare FM-2G. Both require little room around them; they do need some vertical space, though, as both are about 56" high. However, each runs about $110, so they are a lot more expensive. On the plus side, both appear to come with 25' lengths of terminated RG-6 coax.
Less satisfactory than either of the above types is the passive “antenna in a box,” typified by the Godar FM-1A. Its trapezoidal shape is compact: 17” x 9.5” x 1”. It’s not as sensitive as the dipole or vertical types but it takes up very little room. According to the map, you location seems to be about 140’ above sea level and appears to have a shot to the transmitting antennae on the Empire State without any obstruction, so the Godar might work. It costs about $60; you'll also need RG-6 coax. . . . Thom Moon
To Doug Schneider,
Which do you feel are the superior speakers: the Aperion Verus Forte Towers or the Axiom M60s? The price is about the same but there is 14% duty to import the Aperions to Ontario. Does it just come down to ordering both and keeping whichever sounds better to me? (Wood veneer over vinyl for sure.) Expert reviewers and owners say both of these speaker brands are excellent. I’m considering the Paradigm Monitor 9s also.
Aperion, Axiom, and Paradigm are all excellent brands, and the speaker models you’ve chosen are great ones in their lines. But here’s the thing: they all have their pluses and minuses and the one that’s best for you is something you’ll have to ultimately decide. Luckily, picking won’t be that hard. Aperion and Axiom are both factory-direct sellers that offer money-back guarantees. Obviously, that greatly reduces the chances of making a mistake. Paradigm is one of the best-known speaker brands in the world with a huge dealer base. I don’t think you’ll have any trouble finding a dealer that’s quite close by that will allow you to listen.
My advice at this point is to put any reviews aside and let your own ears (and eyes, since the appearance of the speakers you have to live with is important as well) decide. . . . Doug Schneider
To Doug Schneider,
I am about to invest in a new, moderate home-theater system and would like to ask your opinion on the quality and value of this purchase.
Approximately $2400 for all. Is there any other recommendation you might have for similar components in a similar price range?
Thank you for any advice/opinion you may offer.
Patrick J. Diskin
I think you could be happy with that system, but I did notice that it’s missing surround speakers and I don’t know if that is deliberate or not. If you are planning to get surrounds, I would suggest SE speakers for the rears so you have a timbre-matched system, something that’s important for the highest-quality sound. If the reason you left out the surrounds was due to cost, I suggest looking at Paradigm’s new Monitor v.7 series that were just released. You won’t get the real-wood veneer cabinets of the SE models, but you will get Paradigm's latest technology that results in spectacular sound at a lower price.
One other thing I would suggest is to look at other receivers. Yamaha has a strong reputation for producing feature-rich receivers for reasonable prices, but they don’t have a good reputation for high sound quality. On the other hand, Anthem, which is a sister company of Paradigm, has gained a reputation for including a modest number of features but providing excellent sound. Of the features they do include, one stands tall: Anthem Room Correction (ARC). You can read a review of the Anthem MRX 500 receiver here. . . . Doug Schneider
To S. Andrea Sundaram,
I was about to buy the Furutech Alpha Design Labs GT40 for digitizing my record collection when I read your lucid review and realized the GT40 wasn't suitable for my application.
I'm a bit new to ADCs. Do you have any reviews for ADCs for high-quality LP and cassette tape conversion to digital? Or could you point me in the direction of some info on digitizing LPs and old 4-track mixdowns?
I have a collection of old analog music (4-track guitar and bass recording mixes and 50-100 LPs) that I would like to make digital. I would like to record it at reasonably high quality (24-bit and 96kHz) for archiving, but most tracks will end up burned to a CD or for use on an MP3 player for everyday use. I use computers daily but this application is new to me, so I'm a bit lost. What, for example, should I consider in terms of power and soundcard quality when buying an ADC? I am eventually willing to spend up to $600, but might start out by familiarizing myself with something in the $100 range.
I interpreted your review to mean that the GT40 was built more as a DAC (whose applications I would not be able to name) than an ADC. Also, there was some tech talk about needing a preamp in addition to the GT40. I'm looking for something with all necessary components: preamp, power amp, high-quality soundcard (I don't really know what this is, but suspect it's the heart of the ADC process), and USB connection. I want this all to sit between a turntable (a whole other story, I know) and my computer. I also want the option of cleaning up hisses and pops using software like Audacity, so don't want the all-in-one department store LP-to-CD conversion devices like the one by TEAC.
My review of the GT40 focused on its use as a DAC and headphone amplifier, because we believed those to be the features of greatest interest to our typical readers. We actually cut a significant portion of my original draft where I had gone further in-depth on using the GT40 as an analog-to-digital converter. (It would have made the review too long.) The GT40 incorporates a fairly decent phono preamplifier and passable ADC into a convenient-to-use package. That said, if you aren't interested in the very nice-sounding headphone amplifier that Furutech put in there, you may be able to get the same, or higher, quality level on the input side or greater flexibility for less money.
By far the cheapest option is the Sound Blaster X-Fi HD ($99), which even incorporates a phono preamplifier with RIAA correction. The specifications look promising, but I have no idea how it sounds. If you already have a phono preamplifier, you should probably consider one of the many USB digital audio interfaces targeted at the home studio market. Many of these devices operate at 24/96. They will all handle at least stereo inputs, and many of them could even accept the four individual channels on your tapes -- no down mixing required. I have experience with products from M-Audio and EMU in this price range, but there are many other brands as well. If your stereo is not located in the same room as your computer, you may want to consider a standalone hard-drive recorder from TASCAM or Fostex. These provide the same ease-of-use as an old tape deck, but you could then back up or edit the resulting digital files on your computer. We haven't done reviews on these sorts of products in the past, but we may consider doing so in the future. . . . S. Andrea Sundaram
To Doug Schneider,
I have one pre-out from my Denon AVR-4311 and two inputs on my sub. Should I use a single mono cable or a “Y” cable to connect to the sub? What's the difference between them?
Providing they’re both inputs of the subwoofer (and one is not an output for connecting one subwoofer to another in series), chances are they are for the left and right channels, which is irrelevant in your case because your AVR-4311 has one mono subwoofer output. Where left and right inputs would be relevant is if you’re connecting the sub to, say, the left and right line-level outputs of a stereo preamplifier.
Insofar as connecting your receiver to the sub, you’d be better off to look at what the owner’s manual says first. They might recommend using a specific input or there might be suggestions on how best to hook up a single-output receiver -- not every subwoofer out there is the same, and the configurations of some of them can vary quite substantially. But if you don’t have access to the manual, or it doesn’t say explicitly how to hook it up, I suggest running just a single wire and see how that works. Chances are you’ll probably have to put the sub’s volume control about 3dB higher because only one input is active and not two, but that shouldn’t degrade sound quality. . . . Doug Schneider
To Doug Schneider,
I have currently an Onkyo HT-S3200 home-theater A/V receiver hooked up to a pair of KEF iQ30 speakers (as well as the stock speakers that came with the Onkyo). My primary source is a Samsung Blu-ray player (BD-C5500). My headphones are Sennheiser HD 595s.
The problem is that I mostly listen to music from CD, and I think that it should sound better.
I have been thinking of upgrading to a hi-fi amplifier, maybe a Cambridge Audio Azur 350A and in the near future a Cambridge Audio Azur 350C as my CD source, costing nearly $700 to $900.
Is the upgrade worth it? Am I going to notice a jump up in sound quality worthy of the price? I am always looking for better sound but I am on a budget and do not know if I should be happy with what I have or, on the other hand, if I could really get a major boost in sound quality for that price. I considered Cambridge Audio because a local dealer has their products in stock.
Thank you for any help you can give me.
There are some very good-sounding A/V receivers on the market today, so it wouldn’t be correct to say that in every instance a stereo hi-fi amplifier would sound better. In general, though, I think it’s safe to say that you can get better audio performance from a dedicated, high-quality stereo amplifier than you can from an A/V receiver. The reason is that the good hi-fi companies tend to put more effort into optimizing the audio performance of their stereo integrated amplifiers and preamplifier/power-amplifier combos than the companies that make everything-in-the-box A/V receivers. So if improved sound quality is what you’re after, a good two-channel amplifier can provide an upgrade worth the price.
Cambridge Audio is an excellent brand, and since your dealer carries their products, that’s as good as any place to start out shopping. But I wouldn’t end your journey there. NAD has made excellent, affordable hi-fi components for years, so I’d certainly seek that brand out as well. . . . Doug Schneider
To Doug Schneider,
Currently I have a system that consists of a Yamaha 85Wpc six-channel receiver, a Panasonic five-disc DVD changer, a pair of JBL Northridge ND310 speakers, and a JBL PB12 powered sub.
I am not that impressed with the wholesomeness and depth of the sound quality. I think I need to get a multichannel power amp. What is a good amp I can get for around $600?
You mention that you need a multichannel amplifier, which usually means three or more channels, but by the looks of things you might only need a stereo amp, meaning two channels, because you only mention the ND310 speakers. Perhaps you have a center-channel as well as surrounds that you just didn’t list.
Nevertheless, you probably can do better than your Yamaha receiver with either a separate preamp-processor and power amp, or even a better receiver, since there are far better ones than you have. Your budget isn’t that high, so if what I am recommending blows by it, remember that you can always shop on the used market and get a substantial discount. Brands I’d look to first for power are Anthem, NAD and Emotiva. There are many others, but checking out what those companies offer will give you a great start and, I'm pretty sure, a significant upgrade over what you have. . . . Doug Schneider
To Jeff Fritz,
At the outset I wanted to say I appreciate your article on the Aperion Audio Verus Grand Towers.
I was in the process of building up a good system for my room and I have been looking to buy a good pair of speakers costing around $1500 USD. After one month of research on the Internet I now have shortlisted the Salk SongTower QWTs and Aperion Audio Verus Grand Towers. After reading reviews on both the speakers, I stand more confused.
Assuming that you've heard both the speakers, I'm putting forward a request to help me choose one of them. I am going to run them with a Harman/Kardon AVR 7550HD in a room that is about 14' x 22' (acoustically not treated) and although I am more of a music person, I do plan to build up an HT setup later. Could you suggest for me a good comparison study on the Internet that I can go through and make up my mind because being in India I cannot audition any of these and Internet research is the only thing I am going to base my decision on?
I know both the speakers stand very close and it all boils down to personal taste; it would be great to have your opinion on which, out of the two, you would you prefer to buy for yourself. It would mean a lot to me.
Looking forward to it.
I have not heard the Salks but I did look at them online just now. They look like they might be fine loudspeakers and I like the fact that they show some measurements. But even without hearing them I'd still lean toward the Aperions, and here's why: from a drive-unit standpoint, the Aperion is a much more robust design. It is a full three-way loudspeaker with five drivers. The Salk is a two-way design with three drivers. Now, admittedly, that doesn’t make one speaker automatically better than the other, but in this case I'd say that, since you might get into home theater at some point, having greater power handling and the lower distortion that can sometimes come from more drivers, is a good idea. I also know that Aperion now builds their own tweeter, and that is an advantage because it is ideally suited to the Verus Grand Tower. I'm just not sure about the Salks. Lastly, I've only heard good things about Aperion's customer service. I have no idea how Salk's is. I'd go with Aperion speakers. . . . Jeff Fritz
To Doug Schneider,
I am looking at spending approximately EUR1500 on some speakers. It has been suggested I hear three brands: KEF, B&W and Focal. I have heard of B&W only. Do you have any experience with those brands or any others? The speakers will be used for home theater as well.
Those are three great brands to look at. KEF and B&W are UK companies, while Focal is out of France. We’ve reviewed speakers from all three companies and they have been anywhere from good to great, so chances are you’ll end up with something you like even if you limit your shopping to only those three.
Still, for that kind of money you have plenty of options. If I were shopping I’d also look at speakers from these companies: Dynaudio, PSB, Paradigm, and Monitor Audio. Like the three you already mentioned, these companies all make products for stereo and home theater. PSB and Paradigm are Canadian, Dynaudio is Danish, and Monitor Audio is British. I suspect you’re located in Europe and you should have no trouble finding products from all these companies there since they're sold worldwide. . . . Doug Schneider
To Doug Blackburn,
I read your review of the different AudioQuest USB cables, and I think that you made a very good analogy. It is 100 percent in agreement with the difference that I've found in other digital cables.
You may also find this interesting: I had an experience a few years ago with the top-of-the-line digital transport and DACs from Esoteric. I went to an event held by a dealer who operates out of his own home -- he is also a concert pianist. There were a number of audiophiles there, since these were the first units in the US. Later on in the evening, after many people had gone home, we went out to dinner -- the dealer, the representative from Esoteric, the guy from Stealth Cables, myself, and my friend who had just joined us. We got onto talking about different digital cables and also the rubidium master clock in the system. After dinner, we went back to the dealer's house and played around a bit. The differences were not only obvious to the trained audiophiles, but also to my friend. She couldn't care less about audiophile equipment, but she is a violinist. She latched on to the sound of the violin in a concerto we played. She said of the better cables, "I hear more of the bow sound." When it came to the rubidium master clock, the differences were also not subtle. We even did an unexpected blind test, because they were figuring out how to reroute the cables. At first, we didn't hear any real difference. When we went to switch back, we realized that the master clock hadn't been operating. When it was turned on, boom, more focus and more texture to the violin sound.
The difference probably has something to do with timing, even though, as you pointed out, that shouldn't matter when everything is re-clocked. But most audiophiles agree that it does.
S. Andrea Sundaram
Contributor, The SoundStage! Network
To Doug Schneider,
I’m shopping for my first pair of speakers and I’m wondering if I should look for a soft- or hard-dome tweeter. Some people tell me that the soft domes sound better. Is this true?
This question comes up every so often because generalizations do get made about the various tweeter diaphragm materials. Soft-dome tweeters are usually made from silk and are said to have a “sweeter” high-frequency sound. That character has a bit to do with the way the silk dome breaks up in the highest frequencies. Hard-dome tweeters usually have a metal-based dome and break up differently. Aluminum, titanium, and beryllium are common materials used today. Many people feel that each of those materials has a characteristic sound, with beryllium usually being described as the smoothest-sounding because its first break-up mode is much higher than the audio band. The problem with beryllium is that it’s very expensive, so you tend to only find it used on pricey speakers. Aluminum and titanium, which are much cheaper, and are used often in lower-priced speakers, show break-up behavior much closer to the audio band, so some people find these to be a touch harsh if the designer hasn’t done anything to tame these resonances. There are other materials as well, even diamond, but there's no need to get into all that here!
Although I’ve found that some of these generalizations about the sound of each material are somewhat true, what’s more important is the overall driver design. For example, one of the best-sounding tweeters I’ve heard is in Vivid Audio’s speakers and it uses an aluminum dome. Their engineers did some clever things to generate the smoothest sound possible from this material. But I’ve also found great-sounding titanium-, beryllium- and silk-dome designs as well. And I’ve heard some bad ones. The key here isn’t to focus on the dome material, but, instead, on the final result. In other words, what it sounds like. The way to test that is, of course, with your ears, so don't discount any speaker you're shopping for just because of what the tweeter is made of. . . . Doug Schneider